Comfort in the storm: Chicken and dumplings
We are socked in after a bad ice storm because the one thing you can usually count on about Texas weather — it’s changeability — isn’t happening. We’ve been below freezing for about 50 hours and we still have about 20 hours to go. And that non-frozen window is only supposed to last a few hours tomorrow afternoon.
Time to get out great-grandma’s chicken and dumplings recipe. Seventy years later, the notepaper she used to write it down for Aunt Regina is just about as interesting. I’m going to have to consult other recipes on making chicken and dumplings. I’m finding I’m having to do this with some of the recipes Regina kept. During our last visit, Regina, Patti, and I were talking about the skeletal information she had on her recipes and she admitted, “Yes, we wrote them out for people who already know how to cook.”
(I started the fruitcake last weekend. It’s like an Irish soda bread or other boiled fruit cake. The cloves and cinnamon smell so good, as does that brandy.)
Update: Here’s a complete recipe. The kids give it two spoons up.
Chicken and Dumplings
Inspired by Great-Grandma Minnie Dillard and Gourmet Magazine
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon each salt and pepper
1 whole chicken
1/2 cup carrots, diced
1/2 cup celery, diced
1 onion, diced
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
6 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup apple cider
2 cups flour
½ tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ cup buttermilk
½ cup milk
2 Tablespoons butter
Wash chicken and cut into serving size pieces (wings, legs, thighs, breast cut into quarters). Mix salt and pepper into flour, dredge chicken pieces in flour.
In Dutch oven, melt butter and oil. Brown chicken on both sides and set aside. (may need to do this in two batches)
Saute diced onion, carrots, and celery in the oil, butter and chicken bits for several minutes. Add thyme and turmeric and stir a few seconds until it becomes fragrant. Pour in chicken broth and apple cider. Mix well and then gently return chicken pieces to the broth. Cover and simmer 20-30 minutes.
Combine flour, salt and baking powder in bowl. Stir baking soda into buttermilk. Add ½ cup to ¾ hot broth to buttermilk. Stir into dry ingredients and make a rather stiff dough. Roll out thin and leave 10 minutes to rest. Cut in strips and peel off pieces, putting a few at a time in the hot broth until all are added.
Finish the broth with milk and butter.
Overheard in the Wolfe House #255
Sam (to himself, upstairs): It’s a big day today. That’s right. It’s MY day!
Peggy (after he comes downstairs): Happy Birthday, Sam!
Overheard in the Wolfe House #254
Peggy (on the way home from seeing Frozen): Did you enjoy it?
Sam: Well, it wasn’t too bad.
It’s gonna be a Merry Christmas y’all.
Sam is one of Santa’s best elves.
Day:
Night:
Ways with bird
About this time every year, Mark and I would be negotiating over the spot where the turkey fryer would go. When the boys were younger, he often deployed it those evenings we made venison burgers on the grill and we needed to make as many French fries as a fast food restaurant fryer holds. That turkey fryer helped feed those boys with hollow legs. If Mark kept it close to the grill to manage the job as I worked in the kitchen on the rest of the meal, that was fine with me.
But the second or third year we made a fried turkey in it, Mark splashed. If he hadn’t been so swift at turning off the gas, we would have had a real problem. And by that I simply mean meat too randomly charred for consumption even by Wolfe family standards.
The incident didn’t phase my slightly pyromaniac husband. But I still reminded him each year that this wasn’t the way to share Thanksgiving dinner with the good folks of Emergency Services District No. 1 and it might be best to move that fryer just a little further away from the garage.
After Mark died, I gave the turkey fryer to my sister and brother-in-law, who raised two professional firefighters. They use it a lot for shrimp boils. And, I went back to this collection of Thanksgiving dinner recipes I started when the Fort Worth Star-Telegram would talk a local chef into helping a hapless reader — usually someone who barely cooked at all — develop a menu and practice it once before the big day.
I always admired the many ways those chefs could come up with a way to roast turkey. But I was collecting recipes for the sides and desserts to go with that big fried bird. The first year I made the pepita brittle, it almost didn’t make it to the table for its intended purpose garnishing the pumpkin flan. The soups were marvelous. And so many inventive ways to serve the cranberries. It’s a nice collection.
After a few years without our turkey frying guy, the kids and I appear to have settled on a favorite way to roast that big bird, a recipe that uses just the breast. Tonight, it just occurred to me why it may have become the favorite. Here’s the recipe for a hint:
The house is filled with the smells of smoky chile and maple. Texas plus Wisconsin. They go good together.
Pecan Pie
Mile High Strawberry Pie and Cherry Torte
If you want to make pies that defy the season, try these keepers from Aunt Regina. Although, it is possible to grow strawberries in the fall in Texas, if you’re a real gambler. Mr. Lynn Remsing, down there at Gnismer Farm near Arlington in Dalworthington Gardens, has been known to plant “holiday” strawberries. I wish I could afford to buy his farm. It went up for sale in August.
I have my own “heirloom” berry pie recipes here.
French silk pie
National Week of Pie
It was exciting to see a feature in the current issue of Texas Monthly dedicated to old school recipes and cookbooks like the ones we captured at Aunt Regina’s.
As much pie as we’d eat at her place, I expected more pie recipes. She had just four recipes in her accordion folder: French silk, strawberry, cherry and pecan, the national pie of Texas. I will roll them out this weekend.
For most pies, it’s the crust that’s key. Most fruit fillings only require you to put a little sugar and flour or cornstarch with a pat of butter on top. Aunt Regina had two recipes for crust, including one that makes enough for more than one pie:
Letter to Santa
In 1993, Argyle still had a free weekly community paper, The Argyle Sun. Each Christmas they ran letters to Santa from the kids. Some children conveniently numbered each item on their lists, but a boy named Jimmy didn’t. The Sun still printed the entire 30-item list, in all caps, with the plurals attached by apostrophes.
Sam was only 6 years old when he “mailed” this letter at the Argyle Post Office and it later appeared in the Sun:
Dear Santa
My nam is SamW. I would likem more
Thank You










